Ferrets are clean by nature. Adults will avoid
soiling their beds or eating areas, although kits
are not so fastidious. Ferrets naturally back into
corners with their tails raised to urinate or
defecate, and usually do both at the same time.
Because they have such a short intestine, they feel
the need to empty it more frequently than other
pets.
'He poops all
over the house!' Confine a newly acquired kit
to its cage except when it is out for exercise and
play with human observation. Provide a litter box in
the cage, plus a nest such as a sleeping tube or
hammock, and a dish or hopper for food. For the
first few days, the kit will back into any corner
when it needs to relieve itself. If you're there,
you can pick it up when you see this behavior, and
put it into the corner of the litter box.
'She just digs all the
litter out of the pan!' Kits often think the
litter is a wonderful play area and will
enthusiastically dig and burrow in it for the first
week after adoption. They will get over this when
they begin to understand what the litter box is for.

'He goes everywhere in
the cage except the litter box.' Kits that
are slow learners should be given a litter box that
is at least half the area of the cage floor, so that
they just about can't avoid using the litter box
without fouling their bed or food. Standard cat
litter boxes are too high for young ferrets. They
need to be cut down until a space on one side is no
more than an inch high. Special litter boxes are
commercially available for ferrets, with a low side
and a guard on the higher sides to prevent the
animal backing far enough up to miss the box.
'She uses the litter
box in the cage, but she prefers to wait and use the
rug in the bathroom.' When you wake your pet
for playtime, don't take her (or him) out of the
cage until she uses the litter box. The first thing
she will do when you let her out, unless you give
her a chance to relieve herself in the cage, will be
to use the nearest corner (which quickly becomes a
favorite spot).
Stay with the kit while she is out, and whenever
you see her start to back into a corner, put her in
the litter box. You may want to provide several
boxes in the room so that the kit will find one when
she is some distance from the cage. It doesn't take
long for a ferret to decide which corners she
prefers, and she will train you to provide toilet
facilities in those spots. Some owners allow their
pets to use paper in the corners, especially if the
ferrets have their own room with a washable floor.
The most important thing to remember is that animals
learn by repetition, and you cannot expect good
results unless you spend time with the ferret when
she is young, reinforcing the behavior you prefer.
Litter for ferrets
Ferrets do not cover their stool like cats, so
only a thin layer of litter is needed. If more is
put in, many ferrets will dig it out. If your ferret
habitually digs litter out of the box, try putting
less in.
There
are 3 types of litter available: regular clay
litter, fine clumping litter, and several types of
wood products including pellets of recycled paper,
shredded paper, and a mixture of very fine cedar and
softwood shavings.
Clay litters:
Clumping litter and some coarse clay litters are
very dusty and can cause sneezing, especially when
young kits dig and burrow in it, which most of them
do at least a few times. Clumping litter may be so
fine that it sticks to the kits' noses (especially
if they have runny noses caused by
respiratory infections) and interferes with
breathing. It may also stick to the vulva of
females, causing irritation and increasing their
susceptibility to urinary tract infections. Avoid
clumping litters for kits. However, mature adults
may use clumping litters without a problem, because
they just walk onto the litter, relieve themselves,
and walk off without either sitting or burrowing in
it. It is not the best choice, but can be used in an
emergency.
Some clay litters contain odor-controlling
substances such as baking soda and perfume.
Occasional ferrets and cats object to the perfume,
and will suddenly stop using the litter box when you
introduce a perfumed litter. It is probably better
to avoid perfumed litter.
Paper: Pelleted
recycled paper is very good litter for ferrets if it
is changed frequently. It has no odor of its own, is
very absorptive, and is easy to handle. It is not
dusty when fresh, but if the litter box is not
emptied of pellets every time it is cleaned, the
oldest pellets start to break down and become very
dusty. Some ferrets love to dig the pellets out of
the box, which makes them break down much faster.
It is possible just to put folded newspaper in
the corners of the cage and rooms that the ferrets
will live in, and change it frequently. The obvious
drawback to this is that paper-trained ferrets do
not distinguish between their paper and your unread
paper if it is left on the floor.
Shredded paper is very hard to handle when it
becomes wet. This makes it difficult to keep the box
clean.
Fine softwood shavings:
are available with or without cedar. Commercial cat
litter that contains cedar has a faint cedar smell
that does not appear to bother ferrets, and
discourages fleas from entering the cage. The
texture of these products is referred to in the
trade as 'wood chip', as opposed to 'shred', which
is the familiar type of shavings used as bedding for
guinea pigs and hamsters. This litter is in the form
of tiny squares, and is almost dust-free and very
absorbent. It is very light and most kits do not try
to dig it out of the box.
'Isn't cedar
poisonous?' There is much alarmist discussion
about the toxicity of cedar. Cedar oil is
undoubtedly toxic - so is fluoride, which we use
both to kill rats and to prevent cavities in our
children's teeth. The difference between a drug and
a poison is the dose. Baby aspirin will kill a child
who eats enough of it, but given in the correct
dose, it is harmless and usually beneficial. The
amount of cedar in softwood cat litter is very small
and harmless to even young kits. All the ferrets I
have had in my home (more than 20 of them) have used
this type of cat litter. Most of them have lived for
more than 7 years and some for more than 8 years,
with no signs of systemic toxic reaction or skin
irritation.